Katana clutch problem

[Kryten]

Does the pinion shaft run in bushes or bearings? Could slack in these be causing a lack of movement in the release rack?

The pinion shaft runs in needle bearings in the clutch cover.

[Smallkat]

Unlikely that they are knackered. But worth checking just to eliminate.

[Mac13]

Hi All.
With regards to the piano wire stopper and spring washer. I replaced all those with new parts, but I will check to make sure I did this correctly? I put the inner, outer in place and friction plates fitted not bolts or springs. Just sat then I tried to figure out what could/has gone wrong. As Pedda suggested looked carefully at the clutch actuator/lever. No light bulb moments, just tumbleweed blowing through. Ah well, tomorrow's another day!
Cheers Boys

[Kryten]

As you asked in your email here is how I reset the clutch arm.

From the picture above
Item #21 Clutch, Rack Release
#25 Pinion, Clutch Release
#29 Arm, Clutch Release

#25 will rotate freely in the clutch cover
#21 will also rotate in the clutch centre and will only allow the clutch cover to be refitted when lined up correctly to engage with the gear teeth on #25
Re-fit the clutch cover but do not worry where #29 arm ends up
When you have the cover secured remove the arm, turn the Pinion to take up the free play in the gear. (Re-reading my previous post I think I told you a fib!) As you look at the splined end of the Pinion turn it Clock Wise* to take up the play.
Then re-fit the clutch arm on the splined end of the pinion and adjust the cable so that they are about 90 degrees to each other. The photo of the clutch arm with the verniers shows where it needs to be.

If you set the clutch cable up with 2-5 mm free play #21 will not be loading the radial needle bearing in use.
If you set it up like this and you can pull the clutch lever all the way back to the bar/grip then you should get enough movement to release the clutch pack.


* Going to blame having a digital watch for that one

[Kryten]

Something you could try as only a test and not a fix.

Adjust the cable to pre-load the clutch. Maybe not a lot but just a bit, then try the running on the centre stand-in gear stuff you’ve been doing, to see if you can actually get the clutch to release and not drag.

The only thing I can think of at the moment is that as you operate the clutch the clutch springs are becoming coil bound before the plates release. Or the Clutch Rack Release is binding or ending up fully inserted into the clutch cover.
The first option would suggest wrong springs or spacers.
The second would suggest missing bearing or washer behind the clutch centre on the Clutch Rack Release. Or possibly the whole clutch assembly is too close to the clutch cover, so not fully assembled on to the shaft.

I re-read the thread from the start. Is it right to say that you have never had the clutch working correctly since you got the bike?

[Mac13]

Hi Kryten.
The problem was there from getting the bike. Like an idiot, I just thought simple fix because the bike has been sitting unused for a long time. Like I said most parts have been replaced with new ones. I cannot understand what is wrong. Such a simple set up but can figure it? When all assembled the clutch the lever feels smooth. The feel of the clutch cable has improved from when I got the bike when I first (4th time!)rebuilt the clutch and pulling the cable I thought it was sorted! It's as if the clutch that little more adjustment. I will go and stare at the clutch later. Might scare it into working! I don't know if it will help to take some photo's and see if a problem can be spotted. Thanks for taking the time to help me.
Best Regards
Mac

[Mac13]

Hi All.
Put the clutch back together, tried to check each step as I went. When back together I can that the clutch plates are moving. Putting the bike in gear and clutch in can push the bike but it is difficult and feels as if the brake is on (no both wheels are ok). At a total loss now (no change there then)!
Tooks some photographs, but trying to work out how to post them?

[Mac13]

Hi,
When initially assembling the clutch I had to replace one of the 6 spring bolts. Looking at the bolt sent to me by Suzuki it looks a little shorter. But by only a couple of mm. Suzuki assured me that this was the correct bolt for my bike.
KRYTON - I am going to work through your suggestions next.
Thank you all!

[Mac13]

Hi All.
Today examined all clutch parts, nothing obviously worn or incorrect. Part assembled the clutch, Wondered if spring were "bound" too tight. I believe all is as it should be. It must be something that has not been replaced or checked, as the bike still showing the original problem from when I got the bike.

Now I am at a total loss as to what to check now? Any thoughts anyone?

[Mac13]

Hi Buddy,
I will do as you suggest tomorrow.

What I have noticed on the back of the driven gear there are two notches that fit into the oil pump gear. There are also two grooves at 90 degrees to these nitches and looking at the diagram there should be two rubber damping plugs (31 on diagram). I do not nave these plugs. I have been trying all day to get an image of these plugs for reference. Could this be the problem?
Has to be something that was done before I got the bike, so anything I have done so far is not the issue?

I will try your suggestion tomorrow, to be honest, I got nothing else I can think of!
Cheers Buddy