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Katana clutch problem

Posted: Thu Jan 14, 2021 11:47 am
by Mac13
Hi All.
I am having a problem with my katana ever since I got it. When you put the bike into gear it immediately wants to pull away, even with the clutch lever still pulled in. I just thought, bike sitting a long time, plates sticking. Found that the previous owner had fitted the wrong cable and clutch plate showing wear should still work. Nope!
Fitted new clutch plate, springs, etc, and also the inner basket (had a few small cracks).
Just finished putting the bike together, the clutch lever felt right but still the same problem!
Any suggestions would be appreciated.
Cheers

Re: Katana clutch problem

Posted: Thu Jan 14, 2021 4:20 pm
by Mac13
Hi,
I changed the clutch cable, the new one was longer. However, I still got the same problem? Can't figure it out?
Put the bike into gear, clutch in and the back wheel will spin. Put the back brake on and the engine will stall. Off the center stand and the bike is more difficult. Can eventually getaway and the bike seem to ride ok. Can't get neutral at lights etc. Must be something stupid I have overlooked??? I hope!

Re: Katana clutch problem

Posted: Thu Jan 14, 2021 5:39 pm
by Smallkat
New clutch plates need to be soaked in oil overnight before fitting.

Do you have the correct amount of plates? Are they all the same thickness? Sometimes Suzuki slip in an odd sized plate to keep you on your toes!

Are all plates flat?

Are all the bits there? Does it have a wave washer and associated bits?

Correct grade engine oil?

Re: Katana clutch problem

Posted: Thu Jan 14, 2021 5:57 pm
by Mac13
Hi,
Just put the bike together and try what you ask about pushing the bike. The clutch in, in gear, try to push the bike almost impossible! I know that on the centre stand and the bike running the back wheel can spin. I wo0uld not put my hand near the wheel. I have tried, bike running, first gear and then try to stop/slow down the back wheel. The bike will stall. Do think there is anything else I could change in the clutch, all new stuff. I have adjusted cable at the gearbox and the fine-tune at the lever. It must be that it's not full disengaging? I have a NOS cable, not sure it would help or not?

Re: Katana clutch problem

Posted: Thu Jan 14, 2021 6:01 pm
by Mac13
Hi SmallKat.
Replaced new;
Inner clutch basket
Friction plates
Drive plates
Springs
New oil and filter
Even those two large rings behind the drive plate, on the inner hub!
Same number plates of and on.
Cheers

Re: Katana clutch problem

Posted: Thu Jan 14, 2021 6:28 pm
by Smallkat
Did you soak the friction plates before installation?

The parts fiche shows a wave washer and seat, but also a big circlip called a stopper ring. All present and correct?

It looks like there are two thrust washers. Are you certain you got these in the right positions?

Re: Katana clutch problem

Posted: Thu Jan 14, 2021 6:50 pm
by Bikeazoid
I think my buddie had that issue a long time ago, we found spacers on the clutch springs. I think it was on a GS550E.

Re: Katana clutch problem

Posted: Thu Jan 14, 2021 7:47 pm
by Mac13
Hi Small kat.
Soaked the friction plates and replaced the wavey washer seat, wavey washer, and also the stopper ring. I did not strip the clutch any further than the inner clutch basket. I was hoping a new clutch etc would just sort out the problem. I did not remove the outer carrier and therefore the spacers or washer etc. Am I chasing someone else bollocks up? just seems strange and cannot think what? Ah well here comes clutch strip number 4!

Re: Katana clutch problem

Posted: Thu Jan 14, 2021 7:50 pm
by Mac13
Hi Bikeazoid.
You may be onto something. I have changed all the clutch springs, but not looking at the shims/spacer in the outer basket. I am sick of taking that clutch apart!
Cheers Buddy

Re: Katana clutch problem

Posted: Thu Jan 14, 2021 8:10 pm
by Kryten
Hi.

Some thing else worth looking at would be the clutch actuator. The little rack and pinion that pulls the clutch centre against the springs. When you re-assemble the clutch cover, do you take up all the slack and then set the actuator arm so the cable is operating at a right angle to the arm?
Only suggesting that as you haven’t mentioned it in what you have tried.