Katana Owners Club U.K.

Well, I'm at the stage of the rebuild that I absolutely detest.... Timing things up!

The manual says to align to mark T (1-4). The picture is not very clear!

Looking at this one, there are a series of marks: |T |F 1.4 , then some smaller numbers, and another | mark.

I'm assuming that the T mark is correct, as a screwdriver down the plug hole of 1 does seem to indicate TDC when I wiggle the crank back and forth.

My question is, does the T itself or the | immediately before the T need to be on the pointer? or is it too few degrees to really matter?

I absolutely hate timing things up with chains or belts (too much scope for getting it wrong!) and I always try to get somebody else to do it if I can...... But I'm out of budget now!

Cheers,

J

should be the | just before the T so that #1 is at tdc

Thanks Steve - That is where I did have it, but wanted clarification.

Which brings me on to my next moan.... Exhaust cam is in. I now have to count 20 pins toward the inlet cam. The manual says to count from the pin above the 2 arrow. Fair enough, I can see it easy enough.

But.....

Is the pin directly above the arrow counted as number one? Or is the next pin towards the inlet counted as number one? Me and the missus are arguing about it at the moment!

The manual doesn't really make it that clear... But it has to be right, for obvious reasons.

Like I said, there is a reason why I normally steer well clear of these things!

Ta, J

Make sure you've pulled any slack from the front of the chain when putting the exhaust cam in (careful not to rotate the crank, just a gentle pull up will do) the pin directly above the 2 arrow is pin number 1....count then recount to be sure. when you have the inlet cam in turn the motor by hand a few times, any resistnce then stop, if all ok line up your 1&4 T mark and check the marks on the cams are all ok.

Once you're on it you could find out a proper TDC with a pistion stop tool and a degree wheel on the crank. In many cases it turns out that the factory wise marks are rust rough guesses. Not too much hassle to do that and much more accurate than a screw driver.

Tools are not expensive as can me made yourself. How to make you own stop tool you can find somewhere in my project thread (see subsription link). A degree wheel can be found as a download somewhere in the net and then printed and glued to a CD

All sorted.

The missus found a clearer guide on the net that was written by somebody else other than Suzuki.

It stated that there should be 20 pins between the arrows on the sprockets, which there now is.

I'm just about to go fit the tensioner and turn it over to do the final check.

Then I've got to pull the sump off to have a check and drain any water that may have gotten in while I was cooking/chilling trying to get the knackered head stud out of the crankcase. Used a highly unorthodox method to unscrew it, but it worked!

J