Deep fried stator/rectifier cure?

[Phatbluekat]

Hi, sure someone has the simple answer to this one, and sure it was intensively discussed on old forum, so apologies for revisiting old threads...

Just changed the stator and rectifier on the Kat and cured the uneven firing that had been coming on progressively, very similar to fuel starvation with battery going dead quite swiftly, particularly when riding with the lights on. All due to the ingenious way its designed and wired -expensive fix, and the best prognosis is . . . it'll happen again in time! Faster if I ride with the lights on, which is most of the time. That don't sit right with me, really like to sort it once and for all.

Read on the flying banana site that of the three stator wires, two go to rectifier, but the third (which is the one that burns from the windings and leaves you on the roadside in the middle of nowhere -yup) connects directly to the handlebar light switch -throwing all that juice straight at the battery when the lights are on, and on the way takes the rectifier with it from what I understand. http://www.theflyingbanana.com/electrical.htm

But by changing the bullet connection of the third wire to the rectifier instead of lightswitch -TADA, all cured.

Q: If this is the answer, where are the lights then powered from in a simple neat way?

[fossie]

Indeed the light switch operates the lights the green/ white wire is supplementary if you like..... Either way Suzuki didn't get this one right especially for the UK market where people choose to ride without lights, meaning the 3 rd phase of the alternator is playing along.

As has been said very simple just run all 3 alternator wires direct to reg/rec. This can be done by using bullet connectors or more neatly using the block connector and replacing the length of wire you have by passed spade in block. While you are at it run the earth from reg/ rec direct to battery, less resistance and corrosion points.

[Phatbluekat]

Blix/Fossie -guys superb advice, kind of thought that was the case looking at the diagram, but before I blew something and incurred any extra cost thought I'd check -that green white/red/white combo, only now my third party No 3 stator lead is yellow, but same job. I'll do both tomorrow, along with swapping the earth from frame to battery which seems a good idea anyway.

[Phatbluekat]

Done -Simple 2 minute job, lights all work, everything fine, earth still turning . . .

2 photos below in case of confusion, please note only difference to standard all my stator wires are yellow early models should be matching rec wires..tape up whitetracer/green and redtracer/white individually, don't connect them together though, tuck away and forget...sorted, ded easy.

https://www.flickr.com/photos/78320790@ ... ed-public/

[Uncle Bob]

Glad you posted that Phatbluekat as I never saw the post in the old thread and that's good information. The pictures made it a lot easier to actually see what to do rather than the text! Looks neat enough to me. I happen to have a French wiring diagram (as well) and saw that on that market the fix at the connector block (as Fossie suggests) is standard as no light switch. I thought the bullet connector fix looks easier though.

Maybe this post with the images inline (have done in case the flickr ones disappear) can be put in the Technical section for reference with a suitable Subject line.

[Phatbluekat]

Thanks Bob -couldn't quite work out how to get images posted. As with the simplest things best done with pics where pos. Just so happens got another query, but for the technical forum this time ...Ta very muchly!

[johnr]

give them a spray of acf 50 or smear with vaselene, if the connections are dry and get any corrosion on them, then the resistance caused can make the connection overheat and give you bother in future. and as they carry quite a high current, they can get warm in use which can get worse if there is resistance.

[Phatbluekat]

Thanks Johnr -good advice m8

[Phatbluekat]

Not sure if coincidence but if you look at the photo, there's a heat mark on the clear plastic shield covering the 3 phase bullet connector before applying 'the cure' (originally feeding to lightswitch). That came on quite quickly, within 500 miles. Only changed the stator last week. Pulled apart, cleaned and sprayed, should be good for a very long while now. . .

[pookie]

When I saw the headline 'deep fried stator' I thought it was a delicacy sold in a northern chip shop